Liz Tilberis, Harper’s Bazaar (1992–1999)
I often wonder whether I love fashion, or whether I love what fashion used to be, or what it used to mean to me. And when I think about fashion, I […]
Charles James ‘Taxi’ Dress (1932)
When Charles James’s “Taxi” dress made its debut in 1932, it was considered the most modern frock to date. Its name reflects the designer’s concept that a modern woman should […]
Issey Miyake ‘Staircase’ Dress (F/W 1994)
I consider Issey Miyake’s Staircase Dress to be one of greatest achievements in fashion of the last quarter century. Although Miyake debuted his pleating process five years prior, the Staircase […]
Pure Fluff, Vogue (September 1994)
Vogue‘s September issue is out, and it’s lovely. What’s current according to the fashion bible? Fall florals (groundbreaking!), swingy little dresses (modelled by Chanel Iman and A$AP Rocky!), bellbottoms (yes!), […]
Chloé ‘Rachmaninoff’ Dress (S/S 1973)
While reading Chloé: Attitudes, I came across this striking dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld during his tenure with the label. Named after Sergei Rachmaninoff, a Russian composer and pianist, the ‘Rachmaninoff’ dress is […]
Jean Louis ‘Gilda’ Gown (1946)
No one can forget the vision that was Rita Hayworth in Gilda. Aside from actress’s alluring beauty and sass, much of the character’s iconic image can be attributed to designer […]
Brief (But Important!) History of Dog Covers (1914-1947)
Yesterday, British Vogue revealed their August cover starring Victoria Beckham and a special little puppy. I think it makes the cover fun, especially since Ms. Beckham never smiles. It also […]
Swimsuits in Vogue (1941-1959)
Swimsuits are making a splash in every magazine, and since I find a lot of contemporary editorials ether too sexy or too fussy or over-ccessorized (I mean, who goes to the beach […]
Haute Couture Family Tree (An Ongoing Project)
Sometime last year I began to diagram the incestuous world of grand Haute Couture. The same two dozen names kept popping up in my readings, and I wanted to connect […]
Cindy Crawford and Richard Gere (Vogue, November 1992)
In the light of Kimye Vogue controversy, I’d like to do a little time jump to 1992 and the time supermodel Cindy Crawford and eternal dreamboat Richard Gere graced the cover of […]
Zoran, The Wizard of Ease (Vogue, March 1983)
While reading Grace Coddington’s autobiography, a designer name that I didn’t recognize kept popping up. “Zoran made minimal and clever clothes and the quality of his cashmere was fantastic,” wrote […]
Claude Montana
Claude Montana‘s somber story is not uncommon in the fashion industry. It goes something like this: Talented designer hits big time, is adorned by the fashion world, before collapsing into […]