In midst of all the newsletters, press releases, blog-related things, junk and personal emails, sometimes I’m lucky enough to receive something in my inbox that is absolutely breathtaking. When an email arrived from Silvina Maestro, the first thing I thought was “How is this designer not famous?” Well, she is well on her way there. 

This collection is only her second but behind her stands an impressive resume. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, the London-based designer previously worked at Givenchy in Paris, where she assisted Riccardo Tisci designing the Ready-to-Wear jersey garments. Aside from Givenchy, she has also worked for Emilio De La Morena, Nicholas Kirkwood and interned for Alexander McQueen. To add to her already impressive pedigree, she has recently been selected as one of the ten finalists for the prestigious Fashion Fringe competition by John Galliano. 

The S/S 2011 collection, titled “Flowers Grow Pale in Twilight,” is a phenomenal combination of exquisite draping and construction skills with romantic poeticism. Inspired by composer Gustav Mahler’s “Song of the Earth,” this entirely black and white collection reflects the composition’s narrative in which, after a loss of a close friend, the air turns cold and flowers lose their colour.

I caught up with Silvina to learn more about her background, inspirations behind her collections and her fashion heroes.

I think I always knew. I’ve been sketching since I was four years old. I taught myself how to pattern cut and sew by reading books and magazines and I was making clothes for myself when I was nine. When I started reading Vogue I knew I had to come to London, that’s where everything seemed to be happening and I just had to do it. I then went to study Law and Literature until it finally happened and I made it to London to study at CSM.

I love hearing stories about Central Saint Martins. When did you graduate and who were some of your classmates? Any scoop?

I graduated in 2005, I had some very talented classmates who now have very good jobs in the industry. Saint Martins is a great place to study. It’s a very competitive environment but really great if you are prepared to work hard.

For your current S/S 2011 collection, your inspiration was Gustav Mahler’s “Song of the Earth.” Are you always inspired by music and how do you choose your inspiration? 

I’m always inspired by music. Music is a central part of my life. I DJ and sometimes produce music as well, although I haven’t been doing it for a while. Fashion takes up all my creative time so I just listen to it now. I don’t think I choose my inspirations, they just come to me. They are things I love and that I have bubbling in my head, especially music, art and poetry. 

Who are some of the designers that you personally admire?

I admire Yves Saint Laurent a lot. He was so talented and fragile at the same time, with an impeccable taste. He loved art, music and literature, and he influenced the way we dress today probably more than anyone else. I also admire Coco Chanel for building an empire out of nothing but her sheer determination and talent. Her elegance was unparalleled. It proves that it does not matter where you come from but what you decide to do with your life. I also love Cristobal Balenciaga for his pure, architectural couture; restriction sometimes shows more passion than permissiveness. 

My ideal costumer is someone whose beauty radiates from within. Someone intelligent and refined. Someone who appreciates art and beauty.  Anyone who can find beauty in my clothes. 

Jersey can be a very luxurious material to work with, especially if you work with cashmere or silk jerseys. That’s the side of it that interest me the most. The famous Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent was done in jersey, for example. And Coco Chanel was one of the first to use it in a luxury context. It’s a wonderful material and I always think of including it in my designs. 

What has been the proudest moment in your career so far?